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Archive for January, 2012

Caulking can be one of the things that really makes your house look great. But, it can be difficult and time consuming for people if they don’t use the following tips. Often times I see a caulking job that has wrinkles, ripples and is generally a poor end product. Use the following tip to avoid this.

First, make sure that when you cut the tip off the caulking tube, to cut it at an angle. Also, do not cut too much of the tip off, an eighth of an inch for smaller gaps and a quarter of an inch for wider ones. If you cut too much of the tip off it will allow too much caulk to come out and things will get messy real quick.

Now, lay down an even amount of caulk, enough to fill in the gap completely and a little more. This makes for and even surface of the caulk.

Finally, and here is the key, have a damp cloth or rag. Wet your finger and run it along the line of caulk. Every time you lift your finger, remove the excess caulk and wet your finger. This produces an even, smooth line of caulk. Allow the caulk to dry completely. Go back and check for missed spots and repeat Steps if necessary.

Make sure to use Siliconized Acrylic Caulk. This type of caulk is paintable. Get a product that is rated for at least 25 years. If you do use regular Silicone Caulk, which I have seen people use, the paint will not stick to it. If for some reason you have to paint over regular Silicone Caulk, use Primer in a spray can and spray along the Silicon caulk and let dry. This will allow the paint to stick to the surface.

I hope this tip was useful and helps you produce a beautiful and professional finish on your home.Remember, afresh coat of paintonthe exterior of your home adds a great deal to the curb appeal and value of your home.

If you’re planning to paint the interior of your home and haven’t got any painting experience, you’ll want to know how to prep your walls before you get started with adding the colour to your room. The first step is to remove all shelving and pictures from the walls. Next, move all the smaller items out of the room and move all bigger items into the center of the room if they cannot be moved out. Cover all the remaining furniture with a drop cloth.

Now, you’re ready to get started with prepping the walls. First, wash them down because you’ll then be able to see any flaws that need to be repaired. I like using my Swiffer Sweeper with the wet cloths for this because the long handle makes it easy to reach the ceiling and tops of the walls to clean away any dirt and cobwebs.

Next, fill in any nail holes or dings with Poly Filla or other spackling paste. Check the tops of the baseboards to see if they are pulling away from the walls. If so, apply some latex caulking to fill in the gaps. If you have any larger holes in your walls, then you will need a drywall patch which you can pick up at any paint retail store. To repair the hole, simply place the patch over the hole and then spread the spackling paste over the patch with a putty knife. Allow the spackling paste to dry for about one hour (perhaps more for the larger repairs) and then you can sand everything down. In fact, at this point you can sand the walls completely to ensure a smooth finish.

Once any necessary repairs are completed, you will need to prime the walls to at least cover the places where you’ve made the repairs. If you are planning on using a good quality paint from a paint retailer such as Benjamin Moore of Sherwin Williams, you may be able to get away with only spot priming the places where you’ve applied the spackling compound and caulking. The reason is that many of the higher quality finishing paints contain a primer anyway. If you’re using a lower quality paint, then you’ll need to prime everything beforehand. Then, allow the primer to dry for about one hour before applying your paint.

One final tip, if you’re not planning on painting the baseboards, you should apply painter’s tape to the top of the baseboards so that any splatter from rolling the walls does not get on them. Using painter’s tape rather than masking tape is highly recommended because it’s low tack and shouldn’t peel the finish off the baseboards.

The palette is to an artist what the keyboard is to a musician, it is the medium through which an artist expresses himself and as such looking at the palette of an artist can tell us a great deal about how he or she works. If the paints on your palette are not ordered and neat then you run the risk of laying muddy colours on your painting, and having to waste paint which has become mixed unintentionally with others.

Please follow the guide below to avoid this. There are differing palettes for oils and watercolours. If you are using oil then an old style wooden palette with a thumb hole can be used but with watercolours or acrylics it is better to use a modern plastic palette which has recesses, these will hold watery paint and stop it from running into an adjacent colour. When you start to put paint on the paper it is wise to consider where you put the paint on the palette. With oil paint it is easier because the paint takes many hours to dry. Classical artists were trained to arrange the paint as follows. White was placed nearest the thumb hole and then following round in a circle the paints are arranged into the colours of the rainbow and finally black. This very neat arrangement allows all colours to be mixed either on the palette or on the paper or canvas. The white and black are as far away from each other to prevent the colours on the palette becoming muddy.

An example of oils on the palette following these rules would be: Flake white, Cadmium yellow, yellow ochre, raw sienna, cadmium red, burnt sienna, Umber, ultramarine, cobalt blue, viridian and ivory black.

These follow the old rhyme “richard of york gave battle in vain (red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, violet)”. Exactly the same rules apply when using watercolours or acrylics. Obviously the palette you use should have sufficient recesses to hold all the seven colours plus white and black and also with both watercolour and acrylic you should regularly clean the palette completely. This is because as you experiment with colour and tone the resulting colour is “fixed”. With watercolour or acrylic do not spend too much time making a dark tone light or a light tone dark, you are just wasting paint. Clean your palette and start again, always following the rules above. See if by following these tips your paintings take on cleaner brighter hues.

The palette is to an artist what the keyboard is to a musician, it is the medium through which an artist expresses himself and as such looking at the palette of an artist can tell us a great deal about how he or she works. If the paints on your palette are not ordered and neat then you run the risk of laying muddy colours on your painting, and having to waste paint which has become mixed unintentionally with others.

Please follow the guide below to avoid this. There are differing palettes for oils and watercolours. If you are using oil then an old style wooden palette with a thumb hole can be used but with watercolours or acrylics it is better to use a modern plastic palette which has recesses, these will hold watery paint and stop it from running into an adjacent colour. When you start to put paint on the paper it is wise to consider where you put the paint on the palette. With oil paint it is easier because the paint takes many hours to dry. Classical artists were trained to arrange the paint as follows. White was placed nearest the thumb hole and then following round in a circle the paints are arranged into the colours of the rainbow and finally black. This very neat arrangement allows all colours to be mixed either on the palette or on the paper or canvas. The white and black are as far away from each other to prevent the colours on the palette becoming muddy.

An example of oils on the palette following these rules would be: Flake white, Cadmium yellow, yellow ochre, raw sienna, cadmium red, burnt sienna, Umber, ultramarine, cobalt blue, viridian and ivory black.

These follow the old rhyme “richard of york gave battle in vain (red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, violet)”. Exactly the same rules apply when using watercolours or acrylics. Obviously the palette you use should have sufficient recesses to hold all the seven colours plus white and black and also with both watercolour and acrylic you should regularly clean the palette completely. This is because as you experiment with colour and tone the resulting colour is “fixed”. With watercolour or acrylic do not spend too much time making a dark tone light or a light tone dark, you are just wasting paint. Clean your palette and start again, always following the rules above. See if by following these tips your paintings take on cleaner brighter hues.

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